Day 11 Gréoux les Bains to Cannes 100.1 miles (8576ft)

Yesterday was our last day in the road and for many probably the hardest. Close enough to make the finish tangible but not close enough to be a walk in the park. Between the coast and Gréoux les Bains lie a few mountains and they had to be traversed before we could dip our wheels in the sea of the Med.

As you read this it is all over we finished the ride and I am sat here now in the hotel in Cannes to write this last post. The others have all left by various means and are headed back home to resume their normal lives and interests at home. I have a couple more hours to reflect before I start my journey back. 

So yesterday we left the hotel early. Too early for the lovely French host of the hotel Lou Paradou. They don't rise before 08.30hrs so I was instructed on how to remove bikes from the storage and exit quietly. The peloton and support were weary and the endless days of repetition were taking their toll on all as the van was packed with bags for one last time. We rode into town for a coffee and fresh croissants from the boulangerie before starting the last century ride of the trip. 

The weather for the last few days has been unseasonably warm with daytime temperatures up to 35 degrees according to my sat nav. So it wasn't long before the long sleeve Jersey came off and after a few miles on open Provencal countryside we started the first climb of the day. The gorges of Verdon were extraordinary and the views so spectacular that the climbs were almost forgotten as we rode the 'rive droite' of the gorge.

I rode most of the day with Simon and Dougie who has metamorphed over the last 11 days from cycle tourer to full on roadie/climber. The sun was strong, too strong to stand like mad dogs at the top of the climbs waiting for the others so we rode on stopping occasionally to drink cold drinks from local bars and restaurants while we waited for the others to catch up. 

On the descent away from the gorge we passed close to the limestone edges of the gorge passing many other tourists who has come to witness the sights. 

At the last picnic lunch of the day we ate some delicious cakes that Helens Duchamp's daughter (johns niece, see day 10) had made for us, replete with icing and small bicycles piped on the top. 

 

After a considerable wait and for some a sleep we continued slowly on hearing that the others were stopping elsewhere for food and paddles in the water.

 

I think I have worn them out...

We moved on slowly to the next obvious stopping point in a town called Bargemon. I can think of worse places to spend a couple of hours waiting for the peloton to reform! Eventually after almost 2 hours they appeared looking fairly weary.

With so much climbing and a sea level finish it was inevitable that we would spend quite a few miles descending to our destination. I have been trying to improve my descending skills so have had more than my fair share of practice of sweeping bends and hair pin turns over the last week. I never thought I would say this but it actually can go on too long sometimes. It's gets quite tiring to maintain a descending stance for miles and miles. 

Eventually we came to open countryside again and the small rural farmhouse and gites were the only buildings in an otherwise rural landscape. 

After regrouping with the others we started the last climb of the day up through the hills behind Cannes. As I waited at a junction in the early evening sun to waymark for the other riders I had some quiet time to contemplate the day and the ride in general. 

It's been eventful! The route was magical with what felt like the best that France has to offer in terms of scenery and landscapes. I have learnt a lot more about riding especially with groups of previously unknown personalities. In parts I have missed my usual cycle buddies who share common values and appreciation of all that France has to offer but I have also reinforced other friendships and made new friends who will hopefully become part of my cycling fraternity.

So that's my training ride complete for the next adventure in the Pyrenees next month. It was an amazing trip and I am very proud to say that we are just short of having raised £6000 for Film Relief and the North West Air Ambulance service. Two great charities which are more important than any single person or personality on the ride. For many of the peloton it was a huge physical and mental personal challenge and one that they committed to with 110%. 

I have to give one final shout out to Andy whose long term partner Elaine

Finally accepted his marriage proposal made over the Internet from the top of Mont Ventoux. It just emphasises the emotions that are stored on a ride of this length and everyone who made it to the end in Cannes (riders and support drivers) gave their all for 11 days to make the dream a reality. 

Once home there will be much reflection from all. I would be willing to bet that soon rather than wanting to curse me for another hill ahead they will all be wishing they were back at the foot of a climb with the sun on their backs and friends alongside.

 

This blog has been written very much from my personal perspective. It's contains only my experiences and memories. Everyone else has theirs and will I am sure share them when home. There are many other stories to be told of this trip but now from me it's time to hand in my room key one last time and head home by plane. 

I can't wait to see that red van once more so that I can retrieve my 'Eddie' from the back and head off for another ride. 

I love my bike....

PS Steve it may need a new clutch soon, I think the last one was left on the slopes of the Ventoux. 

Day 10 Bedoin to Gréoux les Bains 85.1miles (8511ft)

Today was a monstrous day of climbing and one to mark a large notch on the bedpost of any cyclist. Today we climbed the Ventoux, one of cycling's monument climbs.

We left the Hotel Des Pins with some regret as it was such a beautiful and welcoming hotel. However we were all mentally ready for the challenge of the task ahead and having ridden this far across France, confidence was high. Rob decided today was the day to get back on a bike after several years away and left the comfort of the campervan cab to tackle the 22km climb with us. In fact it was infectious as I am told Ant took part in a relay of the lower slopes with Rob on their way to the top.

The climb can be done from three ways but we were going up the traditional route used most often in the Tour de France from the little town of Bedoin. 

Monday's is market day and the stalls of fabulous Provence produce were setting up.

 

We had to walk through the closed roads to the roundabout where the climb officially starts. 

 

From here it would be 22km to the summit. The climb can be split into three sections: The first a few kilometres from the village at a gentle 2-3% gradient then 11kms at an average of 9-10% through the forest to Chalet Reynard an optional coffee stop. At this point the trees end and the landscape appears almost lunar with white limestone slopes through which one line of Tarmac snakes upwards to the building at the summit. If you have the energy to look to your left there are spectacular views of Provence. However the focus is on the climb and the passing of each bend and kilometre before the effort can be completed and the summit reached.
 

Climbing has to be done at your own pace. It's about establishing a rhythm and using your own mental strategies to overcome everything in your head telling you to stop.

We wished each other well and confident that the kilometre markers showing the gradient at each stage and the distance to the summit would guide my fellow team mates up we all set off at our own pace. I wanted to ride this climb in my own company and at my own pace after days of riding at more gentle speed it was time to ride to my rhythm. I had no idea how long it would take or what it would be like. I had only ridden a couple of climbs this long before but none with such steep long gradients in the early stages. So I just let me legs work at their own speed and intensity. I took the minimum with me, just one bottle and a single energy gel to fuel the anticipated 2 hours of exercise.

It was warm already but not yet too warm and the trees on the lower slopes helped to prevent any overheating.

Eventually the trees ended and I knew there was only 6km remaining left to the top. I wasn't going to stop now even at the memorial to the late Tommy Simpson which sits 2km from the summit. So I tipped my hat to him as I passed and made it on to the top in 2 hours 6 minutes and 56 seconds. Being so close to breaking the two hour mark was a bit painful but perhaps another day without 750 miles in my legs I'll try it again. I couldn't have done it any faster and was happy I had given my best shot at it aware also that I had to pace myself for the rest of the 85 mile days total and another big day tomorrow. It was incredible to get to the top and then to sit and watch as everyone in the team eventually wound their way there having overcome their own personal battles to get there. Simon soon appeared within minutes and found me buying tourist tat and cold drinks in the shop. Then 'Dougie the Mountain Goat' and in time all the others.

Jamie was the most awesome of all, not being able to change gears to her smallest sprocket she had ridden in a larger than necessary gear. Chapeau! 

We stayed quite a while at the summit as more and more cyclists (read 'nutters') from all around the world climbed to the summit. Time for a little souvenir shopping and a banana and Nutella crepe to celebrate. 

And of course the obligatory summit photo. I don't have the group shot but we made sure to get one of us all jubilant and relieved.

Emotions were really running high for some and Andy proposed to his girlfriend Elaine from the summit. She said Yes. :-)

For me it was a bucket list climb and a fabulous ride for my palmares as a cyclist. It was an honour to ride the climb I have seen the professionals ride on the tour whenever they visit. There is something magical about it.
 

That wasn't the end of the day though it was now past lunchtime and we still had 70 more miles to ride so we set off towards Greoux les Bains. 

A quick stop on the way down to pay our respects to Tom Simpson was made before we continued down. 

Luckily plenty of it was downhill so we made good time and eventually after riding across the lavender fields of Provence we got to our hotel tired hungry but all very happy to have completed the day.
 

Tomorrow is another big day with 100 miles to ride and 8000ft of climbing to do in order to reach our goal. Cannes on the Mediterranean, we will have crossed the whole of France. No one will be more proud of the achievements of our peloton than I. I can't wait to see their faces at the finish. 

Day 9 Aubenas to Bedoin 86.7miles (8511ft)

It's probably hard to imagine but everyday we get up and start cycling and everyday the scenery that we ride through just gets more spectacular. The more impressive the landscape generally the more effort that is required to cycle through or over it though especially to obtain the views at the top of the hills.

Leaving our hotel in Aubenas behind we started the day as ever with a large climb. My legs were greatly improved by the cold dip in the swimming pool at the end of day 8. It certainly helped my recovery as the usual heaviness of the first few miles was missing today. Repeat days riding requires rapid recovery from the previous day's efforts and this is where the investment in training will really pay dividends.

We headed south towards Vallon Pont D'Arc stopping in a lovely little restaurant perched on the hillside for our now ritual morning coffee. Breaking the day up into sections and stopping for coffee, lunch and afternoon breaks means the total mileage can be broken down into more manageable goals. The day actually seems to pass rather quickly this way. 

Dougie, enjoying the sunshine on his back! He is making massive endurance improvements each day and slowly we are turning him from a 'Tourer' to a full on 'Roadie' cyclist.

A little reminder that we are cycling past Montelimar (home of Nougat) today was presented with our coffee. 

Our support crew all joined us for coffee and then Rob managed to get some more video footage and photos for the Twitter feeds etc. as we left to continue our journey (follow the ride on Twitter @L2C_2015)

At Vallon Pont D'Arc we joined the Ardèche river and rode up the eroded river valley along the gorges. It's a popular tourist spot and we could see the kayaks passing up the river full of tourists admiring the view. I couldn't decide if it was more or less effort to see the gorges this way. No doubt cooler as the sun was now out and the temperature rising as we did. 35  degrees Celsius is what my Garmin told me it reached today. 

 

A little further up the valley is the Pont D'Arc a natural formation of rock spanning the river. 

 

After just a few miles more the road sweeps up to run along the top of the gorges with a steep climb averaging 9% gradient and a tunnel as well. Jamie who has appeared fearless up until this point felt uneasy in the tunnel which was incredibly dark and rather longer than you would wish for on a bike. However she made it through with the determination and perseverance of someone who is on a mission to succeed and we can't wait to see Jamie arrive in Cannes to prove all her doubters wrong. For someone who has only been cycling for a couple of years she has been incredibly consistent and strong. 

After a few more photo stops at the top of the large climb we continued up the valley eventually emerging into a plateau and a vineyard for our picnic lunch. 

Just time for another cheese baguette and Simon (our team mechanic) to bike faff all the bike issues people have each day. Then we pushed on for the last few miles skirting around the edge of tomorrow's climb. Mount Ventoux is a monument of cycling history and is a legendary climb. Not just as the place of Tommy Simpsons death but also for the severity of its 22km climb. 

Entering Provence the vineyards were abundant and the roads flatter than this morning. You can just see the summit of the Ventoux in the distance in the image below.

By now the temperature had soared and passing a water fountain was a good opportunity to cool off. 

Either that or John was trying to drown himself rather than face the climb tomorrow. He isn't a fan of hills it seems. 
Soon the signs were all around us with names of places long associated with this climb. It can be climbed from three directions. Tomorrow we will take the road from Bedoin to the top so our hotel tonight is just outside of Bedoin and is a fabulous place. I hope to be back one day soon.

It's clearly a Mecca for cyclists, they are everywhere even the chap in the hotel claims to have one been a soigneur for Chris Boardman when he rode for the Gan and Credit Agricole trade teams in France. 

The treat at the end of the day was a lovely French supper in the hotel where Helen and Phillipe Duchamp joined us.  Helen is John's niece and has been a great help to us speaking her fluent French to hotels and restaurants along our route to ensure food and beds were available in the correct numbers each day. 

So it's a big Merci Beaucoup to Helen and Phillipe! 

Bon Nuit all. Big day tomorrow. 

Day 8 Firminy to Aubenas 85.9miles (7660ft)

WOW! Just WOW...

After the rain and cold of yesterday we were happy wake to clearer skies and warmer temperatures but it still required a long sleeve jersey for most of the morning. We left Firminy and headed up on a climb that persisted for the first 7 miles of the day. The gradient was gentle though and the scenery took our minds off the perpetual up curve as we meandered through pine forests and lush meadows full of cows. The scenery and architecture is looking a lot more Mediterranean now with many stone buildings and terracotta roof tiles. 

After the first large hill of the day was conquered and spirits were high, everyone happy to still be here and fit enough to continue we stopped at a small hill top village for coffee or chocolate. I think our arrival in town doubled the population briefly. Andy kept us all laughing with his talk of radishes and other random comments. 

The road then ran along the top of a ridge which was still climbing gently until we got to 38 miles. With more than 5000ft of climbing before lunch the team are demonstrating their increased fitness and ability since our London departure. Some are noticing their body shaped altering from the constant energy requirements needed to fuel themselves on a ride this long. Needing about 5000 calories a day means eating what you like and still losing a little weight or converting fat to muscles. 

Imagine the jubilation at lunch then when after a starting to descend at mile 38 we found the lunch crew at mile 47 barely having pedalled for anything in between.

We had crossed into the Ardeche region and descended into one of the valleys on one of the most beautiful and fun descents I have ever done and I think most of the others would agree. The gradient was just enough to enjoy without building uncontrollable speed or needing to brake and the bends curved to perfection. 

I am afraid I was going too fast and enjoying it too much to stop for photos. However the support crew has again excelled themselves with a fine selection of French cheeses. 

The lunch stop was next to a little lake the sun was out and the euphoria from all was palpable. 

Even the prospect of the next climb wasn't enough to dampen spirits. So we set off in the sunshine up the next 12 mile climb. 

The last 11km was signed at each kilometre with the average gradient ahead. Simon and I rode together to the top in the glorious sunshine and as the elevation was above 1000m we were greeted by a sign for the col summit. 

Wrinklies just to prove I am on the trip here is a photo as requested!

We found a small café at the top so lined up some refreshments as the others crested the top.

Then left for the next 15 mile or so descent into Aubenas. A happy days cycling by all and a hotel with a cold pool to recover the legs in. :-)

Elliott was missing today and we know he is partial to speed and all things fast so here is our little tribute to Elliott. 

Day 7 Roanne to Firminy 64.2 miles (3904ft)

I If you were to offer a road cyclist a day of this journey they would get off their bike at the end of the day and rave about a great days cycling through beautiful countryside. They might even think they were on holiday but try asking them to do it day in day out for a week and you might find the holiday turns into a mental and physical challenge. The peloton are rapidly appreciating the mental and physical toll on the body and mind from spending so many hours on a bike and often dealing with pain from sore body parts on each pedal stroke.

After a great day yesterday completing another century ride and moving past the half way mark one might have been forgiven for thinking that 64 miles would be an 'easy' day. Never underestimate the distance and the effort for any day on a long staged ride such as this. With rain and cold and weary bodies every day in the saddle can be a tough one and today was no exception for many. 

We left the hotel in Roanne, Andy Cooper who is perpetually trying to 'out Strava' us all started the day early right from his hotel room door! 

We left the town and entered a valley where we crossed a dam over the Loire river. 

Climbing sharply upwards we reached some spectacular views from the hills on the side of the valley.

Then we paused again for a  brief photo stop at the Chateau de la Roche which protrudes into the river Loire. 

The heavens then opened and we all got wet and cold. Changing gear with numb hands is never easy but for Elliott the cold and damp and slow progress with the hills due to his knee pain meant he very sensibly called a halt and metaphorically pulled off his race numbers and climbed into the Voiture Balan (broom wagon). 

Elliott abandoned. 

If it had been me I think I would have abandoned on day 1 or 2. He has ridden almost the whole way with sore and painful knees. The way he has quietly persevered and ridden on and on in obvious pain has been humbling. He has been an inspiration to us all and we shall dearly miss his presence in the peloton tomorrow. I shall miss the cheeky one liners guaranteed to induce giggling for at least 10 miles after he delivers them. 

Supper tonight I think the others would agree was a little subdued. We felt for him and we missed our friend. Then Idris received a long text message from him with such kind and thoughtful words to each of us to motivate us on and we were all soon smiling again. 

A toast, "To Elliott, an inspiration", tomorrow we ride in his honour. 

We finished our day after Elliott left with a few more miles of climbing and some frustratingly beautiful descents. The roads were wet so we couldn't take risks on the way down and John and I rode it together. 

Some beautiful scenery was had by all and we all appreciated a hot shower at our next hotel in Firminy. 

Tomorrow is another day. Time now to sleep.